Nissi Beach and Konnos Bay – two of the most popular beaches in Cyprus. And with borders still closed to many countries, both are currently half empty. Which means that now is the time to enjoy them without the crowds. And to support the businesses struggling to survive in the hard-hit tourism industry.

After lockdown was lifted, I started to see photos on Facebook of my Cyprus friends in the Maldives. Smiling faces, white sand, crystal clear blue water, massive sunny skies.

‘We weren’t in the Maldives!’ a friend laughed. ‘We were at Nissi beach.’

Without all the crowds, I didn’t recognise it.

I’d heard Nissi can still get busy at the weekend with fellow islanders enjoying Cyprus’s most famous beaches without all the tourists. So we decided to head up to Ayia Napa for a couple of days, mid-week.

Not many hotels are open and even fewer offer meals – unless you want to pay €400+ a night. So we opted for a self-catered apartment and found the Silver Sea Complex, a five-minute drive from Nissi beach.

We were pleasantly surprised by the Silver Sea Complex. Our apartment was far nicer than any hotel room we’ve stayed in on previous visits to Napa. It was spacious, clean and there was a children’s play area in the garden at the back. Perfect for Herc while Goobie did his homeschooling.

As we drove to Nissi beach on our first afternoon, Ayia Napa was a ghost town. Most shops and restaurants were closed and there was barely anyone there. Compared with my girls’ clubbing weekends, it was like a different place.

We could tell as soon as we reached the Nissi beach car park that it was half empty. No driving round and round looking for a parking space. No getting stuck as loads of other people try to do the same. We pulled straight into a bay and headed for the beach.

I love Nissi beach, even when it’s heaving with tourists. Yes, it’s crazy and commercial and very different to the remote parts of the island we usually like to visit. But I love the energy here. This is the place you go to after clubbing until 5am hours earlier.

We always head to the beach bar at the far western end, so that I can swim while listening to the great beachy dance tunes that are pumped out across the bay.

The sun loungers mar the beauty of the beach but they are really useful when you have a toddler and loads of stuff. And at the moment they are half empty and spaced out to adhere to social distancing rules.

The little lagoon in front of Nissi’s iconic island is perfect for toddlers. The water is flat, warm and shallow, the sea bed covered in the softest sand. Herc loved it. And Goobie loved spotting the tiny fish that swam through the bay.

My eye was drawn to the island. I’d never explored it before and I spotted a big cave on its eastern side. So while everyone else played in the sea, I waded across the lagoon to the island.

A sandy path ran up to the top and I reached a sign warning not to approach the unstable cliff edge. In front of it was a skylight to a cave below. It was covered by a metal grill to stop people falling in. It was too enticing to ignore.

Getting to the cave involved climbing down the unstable cliff edge, hopping over the massive boulders that had already fallen. It wasn’t a straightforward climb with a big Nikon but I got there eventually. I discovered there were a few caves, interconnected. The main one had a massive entrance, but wasn’t that deep. It stank of bird poo. At the back was a tunnel that led to a tiny cove and possibly other small caves – but it was too tricky a climb to do barefooted, without risking the camera.

Above the big cave was a smaller one, the footprints of hundreds of birds making patterns on its sandy floor.

Hot and sweaty, I ran back to the sea. Ahhh! The sea is a wonderful temperature at the moment. Refreshing without being too cold.

There’s a water sports centre at Nissi beach, offering jet-skiing, towed inflatables and boats. Goobie wanted to go on a peddle boat – a bright orange one with a slide attached. We hired one for €15 for 30 minutes. Goobie peddled and Herc steered, while I spotted fish through the clear water. Fun!

Finding a place to eat dinner wasn’t as easy as usual. Most places were closed – even the Bedrock Cafe. However, there are a number of restaurants open along Nissi Avenue. A favourite of Herc and Goobie’s is the Acropolis. It has its own mini luna park with a bouncy castle. There’s a good selection of food on the menu to suit everyone. And the staff are so warm and welcoming. Our waiter told us how difficult it is for everyone at the moment. How some restaurants have been trying to open but having to close a few days later due to lack of customers. There was just us and two others in the entire restaurant.

The restaurants have anti-bacterial hand wash so you can clean your hands before entering. All tables are spaced out for social distancing. We felt totally safe.

For our second day, we were heading east to Konnos Bay, another famous, beautiful cove, usually rammed with tourists. On the way we stopped off at the Cape Greco sea caves, arguably the most beautiful sea caves on the island.

Usually when I’m there I feel cross and frustrated. Unable to get a shot of the stunning view without countless people in it.

Now it’s totally deserted. Completely. We had the sea caves to ourselves. It was wonderful. Special.

We drove on to Konnos Bay. Konnos Bay is a little cove at the bottom of a hill on the eastern coast. It’s between Cape Greco and Protaras. Surrounded by trees, it is incredibly pretty. Yet never tranquil. Just getting there makes my blood pressure soar. A twisting single-lane road leads to a packed car park and it can get gnarled up with oncoming traffic. The cafe and showers are usually too busy to bother with. We visit the bay because its beautiful, though rarely relaxing. In the past there hasn’t been a single sunbed available – which means no shade. At all.

It’s a very different experience visiting Konnos Bay at the moment. We managed to drive to the parking area at the bottom of the hill and still find empty bays. The cafe was open but not full. We walked onto the beach and saw that over half the sunbeds were empty. People were chilling out, playing in the sea. For the first time, Konnos Bay genuinely felt tranquil.

We hired two beds and an umbrella for €7.50 on the far side of the bay. It’s not as pebbly in the sea at this end, which is better for the feet. Yet there are some massive boulders too, which is great for snorkelling. And Herc was able to splash around in the shallow water without needing to be carried. In front of him scurried a big black crab. Exciting!

Herc and I splashed around for ages while Matt and Goobie went snorkelling. There’s loads to spot. A massive shoal of jellyfish closed Konnos Bay the previous weekend. Thankfully they don’t hang around for long and the bay reopened soon afterwards.

So having said how wonderful the tranquility was, Goobie and I were about to ruin it. I was taking him jet-skiing! There is a water sports centre at Konnos Bay and I’d waited years for Goobie to be big enough to sit safely on a jet ski. For €40 we hired one for 15 minutes and shot out across the bay. Awesome fun!!! And Goobie loved it too.

We enjoyed our mid-week mini break to Ayia Napa. We loved spending time at Nissi beach and Konnos Bay without all the crowds. And yet I really hope, for the sake of the island’s economy and the businesses that rely on the tourist industry, that the world becomes safe enough to allow visitors back in.

Until then, I can’t think of a better place to be during a time like this, when we can’t leave the island. There is just so much to do and see and explore in this beautiful country. So grab your anti-bac gel and face masks and soak it all up before the crowds return! While adhering to social distancing of course. Use the hotels, apartments and restaurants that are struggling to survive. Enjoy the deserted landmarks and the half empty beaches.

Who needs the Maldives???