This is a supplementary post to my earlier, more detailed one about hiring a boat in the Akamas. If you are thinking of going, read that one first. I’ve written this post purely to revel in all the beauty!
As before, we hired a boat from Latchi Watersports (plus the inflatable doughnut – don’t forget that!) and headed out from Latchi harbour along the Akamas coast. There is something uniquely magical about the Akamas. After previous adventures trying to drive there, it feels impenetrable, remote, untouched by mass development. So being in it feels like a rare privilege. Let’s hope the Akamas remains that way.
This time we felt much more confident driving the boat. So confident, in fact, that we let Herc have a go. All the zigzagging was fun.
We skipped driving all the way to Cape Arnaoutis at the end of the peninsula as the sandy beach there didn’t seem that exciting. So we stopped at the Blue Lagoon first. The big tourist boats arrive in the lagoon at 11am and we wanted to enjoy the tranquility before it was filled with crowds and thumping music. We moored near the little island Khamilis on the eastern side of the lagoon. I’d wanted to explore the island on previous visits, but usually the big boats are moored there.
I swam straight there and climbed over the rocks and onto the island. What interested me about this place was what looks like an ancient quarry in its centre. The flat sides and angular edges look too deliberate to be natural. Could this be a quarry? And what for? I can’t find any information about it.
Around Khamilis island are boulders and reefs that make it a stunning spot for snorkelling. Fish swim in and out of channels that also looked slightly man-made. I saw so many kinds of fish, sea urchins and sea grass. Goobie was convinced he’d seen a dead moray eel.
I loved the contrasts. The rough rocky yellows and bronzes of the reef, sparkling in the sun. And next to them the deeper, softer blues of the open water with its smooth, sandy bed.
Matt and I took turns looking after Herc, who enjoyed bobbing in the sea in his life jacket. But then I found a way to snorkel AND look after Herc. I put on a full face mask and life jacket and Herc sat on my back as I snorkelled face-down in the water. This worked brilliantly – until he grabbed the top of the snorkel and cut off my oxygen supply!
Between Khamilis island and the shore is an area of shallow reef, home to countless fish. To the east of the reef is a popular diving spot. I didn’t get round to this side of the island this time. Too soon the noisy tourists boats arrived and it was time for us to move on.
Next was Fontana Amorosa. This is the bay where you’ll see remnants of ancient pots on the sea bed. Look at this jug – the arm is still intact!
I wanted to explore the western end of the cove with its rocks and boulders because it looked the most interesting. The sea floor rose up and sand was replaced with rock and then reef. It was utterly unique. The reef reached just below the surface so I had to suck my tummy in to swim over it without touching its yellow sea plants.
All around, the reef gave way to little circular lagoons of deeper water. Swimming into each underwater lagoon was like entering a different room or house. Each containing its own ecosystem. There were loads of rainbow sea wrasse living there – quite large ones too. I also spotted a species of fish that I hadn’t seen before. They were shy, preferring the darkness of an alcove in a rock.
Our final destination was Manolis Bay – we were saving the best to last. This was the highlight of our trip last time. I had another look in its two caves, taking my torch to light up the enticing depths of the largest cave.
My main focus this time was snorkelling the east side of Manolis Bay and around the headland. I didn’t see much at the end of the headland but as I swam back I saw loads of silver garfish.
I finished our second Akamas boat trip (this year) by floating on my back and enjoying the sheer deliciousness of the soft cool water. Nearby, Goobie practised his free diving and Herc splashed around in the sea.
We were more relaxed on our second trip, less overwhelmed by everything, able to slow down, put down the camera and fully immerse ourselves in the underwater beauty of the Akamas. We thanked our lucky stars that we can raise our children in this enchanting island where they get to experience so many amazing things.
They have no idea how lucky they are.
Yes, it was a quarry in past times. Fishermen collect sea salt after winter from there. Mind when at Manoli bay as there can be nasty fish, hiding in the sand, which can sting and you have to go to hospital.
I was living >40 years on this part of the island and as my house was not too far away I have spent many times at Manoli all day long in times when there were no tourists visiting that bay. (1978….)
The long silver fish are young barracudas, my favourite fish when out for lunch.
If you like to eat really fresh fish and you are in the Paphos area try Filiotis fish tavern. Easy to find as it is on the beach opposite the army airfield when you drive the Paphos Airport road. Nice place also for the kids which can go in the water right where the restaurant is…
I did a review of the place with some of my pics where you can see the quite large barracuda I enjoyed that day.
https://www.paphoslife.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9599&hilit=filiotis
By the way, I liked your underwater photos a lot….
Max
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